An influx of indentured labourers, of Asian descent—mainly Indians, are ferried into East Africa to engage in construction work of what comes to be commonly known as the Uganda Railway.
This railway is one of the most ambitious projects in British history, envisaged to link hinterlands of Kenya and Uganda to the coastal port of Mombasa, to transport raw materials for shipment to Britain and finished goods in reverse order. At this time, East Africa is at the dawn of colonialism, heavily opening up to vicissitudes of lopsided international system characterized by plunder and colonial rule over numerous cleavages of local authorities.
From 1896 in Mombasa, the railway takes 35 years to reach Kampala. During its construction, many lives due to disease, hostile encounters between construction workers on one hand and local ‘tribes’ and wild animals on the other are lost. In addition to hefty financial costs, these occurrences spark debate in the British Parliament. Opposition legislators wonder whether this is not an ambitious project meant to waste taxpayers’ money while maintaining it should be equated to nothing but a Lunatic Express.
These setbacks do not derail progress. In Winston Churchill’s words, “The British art of ‘muddling through,’ was here seen in one of its finest expositions. Through everything – through the forests, through the ravines, through troops of marauding lions, through famine, through war, through five years of excoriating Parliamentary debate, muddled and marched the railway.” Indeed, in 1931 the ‘metallic snake’, as Africans knew it reaches Kampala, although British opposition from start to end has been referring to it as “gigantic folly”.
Although the story of then is a story for the future, a horde of indentured labourers that choose to stay among African people against the backdrop of poor pay, dangers likely to accrue as a result of settling in foreign land, the initial immigrants were the real harbingers of many Indians to follow.
If this story serves as a background to the settlement of Asians, it also runs concurrently with another of a young man 19, still of Indian descent, following on after his uncles, travels to Uganda in 1908 in search of what Ugandans usually refer to as ‘greener pastures’.
Like any other ordinary person would, this young man starts out as an aide to his uncles’ retail businesses spread in Iganga and later Kaliro both in Busoga. With his business acumen, the young man is so impressive that his uncles advise him to settle in Jinja to open up another shop. Like Ugandans would term it, it’s here that he ‘collides’ with good luck thus becoming one of the biggest entrepreneurs this country has had.
Of luscious concern, before digressing into colonial history, is how this 19 year old who comes to be known as Muljibhai Madhvani, negotiates a deal with one of the local authorities in Busoga to acquire 800 acres of land. On this piece of land he’s to establish a sugar factory that would and other businesses of his, contribute enormously to Uganda’s economy.

Madhvani acquired over 800 acres of land in Busogo
Although writers have written about Madhvani’s fortunes as a vivid fulfillment of a dream in a country he only came as an apprentice, his vision to having his labour force taken good care of through healthcare, free education and housing, hasn’t been fully achieved!
Today, the place where Madhvani laid the foundation for his factory has grown into a metropolitan place referred to as Kakira Town Council. Besides serving its labour force, the town equally serves a horde of dwellers and petty businessmen from neighbouring villages.

One of the families in the staff quarters
Immigrant labour still exists, but as one would imagine, continues to be the niche for cheap labour and constant exploitation. One resident, whose name will not be divulged due to sensitivity of the matter says that workers in Kakira Sugar Factory are the least paid, with many earning as little as 40,000/= (equivalent $21) a month.
“If government came up with an investment code to protect investors, why not come up with regulation to protect local workers?” He dares; although this is a question we don’t have to answer but in all honesty is well deserved.
An immigrant himself, who has moved through ranks of being born there, growing up in squalor, and dropping out of school, his experience offers so many lessons to learn from. His honesty to change the very place that beguiled his parents to come to, can be termed as the highest watermark of what true leadership should be and should look like.
“Children in this place have degenerated. They’ve dropped out of school to earn utmost 2000/= (less than $1) per day by offering cheap labour to cut sugarcane, they’ve resorted to drinking and also playing bait games to earn a living. This needs to change!”
The situation is more despicable than one might imagine. A polytechnic was established for the youths to earn skills in engineering, but none of them wants anything to do with school. Besides, the numerous primary schools that exist have never been put under UPE—Universal Primary Education yet Kakira has one of the highest number of school going children. We’re told the current management works in a situation akin to colonial setting. Even when labourers earn little money, their children must be paid for. It is like receiving money in one hand and giving it out in another.

Child labour is rampant--children like these may end up cutting sugarcane instead of going to school
Redundancy—the worst evil—has turned the youths into enemies of the community. Their avid desire to earn a living leads them to wayward activities including waylaying unsuspecting residents. A new form of vandalism has emerged; stealing metal in many forms—scrap metal, signposts, billboards, underground pipes etc.
In the plantation terrain children as young as seven struggle to carry scrap metal heavier than their weights while trailing their mothers who are also carrying bundles of firewood.
In its own right as a semi-autonomous sub-county, Kakira is in its own league. Some members I travel with, who were born and bred here narrate the enticements and odds their parents have endured but come to dread over the years.
“Madhvani will give you free housing, free electricity and water. You’ll feel comfortable but you’ll never develop,” one of them observes.
Another tells a story of her father who originally comes from Gulu but has rendered his service to the sugar factory for over 30 years. Her father has raised his family against a backdrop of all odds. When we visit him—at some quarters whose name I can’t recall—he is relaxed in the comfort of his grandchildren.
“I’ve seen them grow (referring to his children and grandchildren), but possibly end of April this year, I’ll be retiring,” he discloses with a lot of emotional undertone.
In Kakira there is a common belief that Madhvani’s money can never make anybody rich. Those that have come to this ‘hallowed’ place end up being entangled while those they left behind in the respective homelands usually surpass them. Sad situation!
Our trip also pays homage to the outgrowers’ schemes in Kabembe and other surrounding areas. Outgrowers’ is a farming practice where privately owned land is given in—for a fee or not—to the factory to grow more sugarcane to supplement supply. But those that practice it have been exploited with impunity. For every ton of sugarcane they produce they’re paid a pitiable 38,000/= ($19) but very few farmers can raise 100 tons. Sugarcane takes 18 months to mature, which in essence leaves farmers waiting for two years to be paid if their harvest is good anyway.
Surrendering land to grow sugarcane rather than cultivating food crops has led to famine. Food is expensive and livelihoods have deteriorated. Although government came up with the NAADS (National Agricultural Advisory services) Project, it has not been explained to people very well and as a result it has ended up as a mess.

Atim (middle back row) is one of the model farmers of NAADS!
One lady whose anonymity should be respected confers that those at the helm of the project have benefited themselves and totally messed up what would otherwise have been a good project.
“They’ve taken livestock and seeds that are meant for us while our area MP and other local leaders are looking,” she adds.
The scale of misery in these areas can be curbed with a new sense of direction crafted. Constant sensitisation about food security could be the lure from bad agricultural practices. If that is the challenge that lies ahead of us, we have an uphill struggle of changing practices that have hitherto turned into customs.
As we’ve already stated, the story of Kakira Sugar Factory is a story of domination on one side and exploitation on the other. Working relations between the Indian bosses and local labours are always at their lowest. If Madhvani was here, he would probably overrule every odd like he did in 1900s to the change the situation. But as things stand, the situation is slowly getting infinitely worse!